Friday, August 20, 2010

gnarly winter session



yesterday was very cold with a very gusty offshore wind and solid swell.
it was only supposed to be 3-4ft but by afternoon the swell had doubled in size and the bombies at 13th beach would been easily in the 6-8ft range. after a quick, frustrating session at 13th the swell was just out of control turning the waves into a big soupy mess. making it out the back without getting cleaned up by a set was a mission. to make it worse when i came in after a few waves i somehow ended up locking myself out of my car for an hour in the freezing cold... not much fun.

when i finally got back into the car we headed up the road to poo point at the western end of the beach where it is much more sheltered from the swell. the waves were a lot cleaner here but the bigger ones were mostly really fat walls with only with one good section before closing out heavily on the inside (that section claimed quite a bit of broken gear). it wasn't really epic but still got some good photos, thanks to phi, which made it all worthwhile.

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